By CHRISTOPHER BROOKS

Published: July 9, 2010

The pastel interior at Gelatissimo — Key lime walls, mango yellow countertop,
papaya-colored tables — complements the colorful gelati in
its freezer case: a large range of sumptuous flavors that Nuccia Mazzonetto has
been offering her customers in New Canaan for the past five years. Out of a rotating
list of about 60, up to 22 flavors are available at a given time (from $3.75
to $6.25 a serving, depending on size). All are made on the premises by Ms. Mazzonetto
in batches no larger than a gallon and a half. Ms.
Mazzonetto, who, with her husband, Andrea, owns the shop, was born in Italy,
where she learned to make gelati from her father-in-law. The handmade quality
is evident in the swirled, asymmetrical mounds packed into the cooler’s rectangular
bins. It is even more apparent in their velvety smooth texture and vibrantly
fresh taste.
The most popular flavors — mint-chocolate chip,
a very intense chocolate, and chocolate hazelnut candy — are available most of
the time. Others, like watermelon (made from fresh fruit), dulce de leche and
a dairy-free passion fruit sorbet, appear seasonally, with a fig-based gelato
to debut soon. A recent rosemary gelato was smooth and creamy, with pleasingly
piney overtones, while pistachio, made from nuts imported from Sicily, was flat-out
one of the best around, without a hint of the almond extract used by so many ice
cream producers. Gelatissimo
also offers made-to-order crepes, filled with Nutella and topped with gelato,
fresh strawberries and chocolate sauce ($6.25). Custom-made gelato cakes are
available, too ($45 to $62, depending on size). Gelatissimo, 26 Forest Street,
New Canaan; (203) 966-5000. Summer hours are Monday through Sunday, 11 a.m. to
10 p.m. No credit cards accepted. [